Osama Jalali reflects on his roots, life and passion for regional cuisine: ‘Wish to be remembered as a chef who loved to feed people’ (2025)

“I still remember carrying a steel glass in our bag to measure rice for biryani – that is how I used to do it at home! Today, it is a completely different world. The journey has been tough but adapted well, and it has been nothing short of amazing,” says Jalali.

Jalali says the smiles on the faces of the people he feeds encourage him to keep cooking. “I have so many memories of cooking for people and being part of their special moments — whether it is their anniversaries, work celebrations, or just important days in their lives. That feeling of making someone’s day a little more special through food is what keeps me going, always,” he says.

Jalali’s love for regional food and his passion for Indian cuisine have translated into him specialising in curating Rampuri, Shahjahani, North-West Frontier Province, Mughlai, and Nawabi dishes. “I truly enjoy presenting the hidden culinary gems of India to a global audience. Sharing traditional, lesser-known recipes with people and keeping our rich food heritage alive is what drives me every single day,” he says.

A taste of Old Delhi

Belonging to Uttar Pradesh’s Rampur, Jalali’s parents moved to Old Delhi where his father was a doctor and lived next to the Jama Masjid. “My father used to diagnose khansamas and bawarchees (cooks). They have this unique way of saying thank you when they get well. They used to send us some khormas and biryanis as their token of love. My mother used to ask them to teach her the recipes. It has been five decades, and that is how I came in touch with old Delhi cuisine,” reminisces Jalali.

One of the biggest setbacks Jalali faced was the loss of his father, the sole breadwinner of the family, in 2012. “His passing left us in a difficult situation. But somehow, we managed to push through. We started by setting up small stalls in local melas (fairs), and from there, we slowly built our way up. Today, we are cooking in some of the leading hotels across India. This journey, from those tough times to where we are now, has made me strong,” Jalali says.

Jalali was recently in Pune for a home style Riwayat-e-Shahjahanabad cuisine pop-up at the Pune hotel Conrad Pune, a collaboration that took place through Instagram after he connected with the hotel’s executive chef Pradeep Rao, who is also passionate about regional food festivals.

“While many focus on commercial or popular dishes, what sets us apart is our dedication to traditional recipes rarely found on restaurant menus. Dishes like Dal Gosht, Aloo Gosht, Kimami Sevaiyan, Veg Kebabs, and Paneer Kaliya are all part of the everyday home-cooked meals in Old Delhi but are hardly ever showcased at food festivals. This focus on preserving and sharing these lesser-known, soulful recipes is what makes Riwayat-e-Shahjahanabad so special and different from others,” shares Jalali.

“I came as a one-man army but chef Pradeep and his entire team were a constant support throughout this pop-up. Having a dedicated and passionate team around you is so important to keep everything running smoothly,” says Jalali.

Prod him on how Riwayat-e-Shahjahanabad cuisine is different from his forte of Mughlai and Nawabi cuisine and he explains with child-like wonder in his eyes, “Delhi cuisine is quite different from Awadhi cuisine. Awadhi food is more associated with the Nawabs — it is royal, rich, and heavily influenced by intricate techniques and presentations. On the other hand, I like to describe traditional Delhi cuisine as the ‘cuisine of bhashas (languages)’. It is more rustic, aromatic, tender, and natural. It reflects the diverse cultures, languages, and people who have lived in Delhi over centuries, bringing together simple yet soulful flavours. That is what makes it so unique and distinct from the more refined Mughlai and Nawabi styles.”

Jalali also focuses on the medicinal properties of the ingredients he uses. In fact, he strongly believes that the vessels and equipment used play a crucial role in enhancing taste. “We stay true to the traditional Old Delhi style of cooking. We use copper vessels for preparation and completely avoid modern mixers. Instead, we rely on the good old mortar and pestle to grind our ingredients. These thoughtful and authentic practices help preserve the originality and soul of our dishes,” says Jalali.

According to him, each spice is carefully examined to determine its hot or cold nature before blending it into recipes. Acknowledging that there are “definitely challenges” when he has to cook in new places almost each month, Jalali says it does not affect him much because he “never compromises on the food”.

“We do not change the masalas or any part of the recipe. We strictly stick to the traditional cooking procedures and authentic spices, just as we do back home. For us, it is all about retaining the original taste and essence of the dish, no matter where we are. That is what makes our food special and consistent everywhere we go,” he adds.

A platter of his dishes (Photo: PR Handout)

Sticking to the basics

Jalali, who is busy adding finishing touches to an upcoming book, says he usually takes a break from social media for a few months. “Social media has its pros and cons, but there is no denying that it is the need of the hour – whether it is for showcasing your product or reaching a wider audience. At the end of the day, what is seen is what gets sold. If you are good with appealing content, there is always space for you, no matter how crowded the field is. That is what makes someone stand out, and being able to carve your own identity. Honestly, whether or not you know how to cook is one thing, but in today’s world, knowing how to use social media effectively truly matters,” says Jalali.

The co-founder of Delhi restaurant Masala Trail has managed to lose over 50 kg over the years. “I maintain a balance in everything I do, and there are certain areas I am very strict about. Going to the gym is a regular and important part of my routine. When a habit becomes something you genuinely enjoy, it never feels like a burden or a hurdle—it just becomes a natural part of your day,” says Jalali, who is fasting during the holy month of Ramadan.

Here’s a glimpse of chef’s special (Photo: PR Handout)

His advice for newbies looking to make a mark in the hospitality field? “Do not underestimate the basics, he says, adding, “Have the patience to stick to your fundamentals because they are the foundation of everything. Always respect your parents’ cooking – especially your mother — it is where real learning begins. Make sure to absorb as much as you can from your home kitchen and take the time to research and understand regional cuisines. Nobody becomes a celebrity chef overnight. It is only through hard work, dedication, and staying true to your roots that real success comes,” he says.

How would he like to be remembered? “I wish to be remembered as a chef who genuinely loved to feed people, not just someone who cooked for them. For me, it has always been about sharing love through food and creating meaningful experiences, not just serving dishes,” says Jalali.

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“As they say, behind every man’s success, there’s a woman…but in my case, I am blessed with two: my wife and my mother. They both travelled with me for all the culinary pop-ups across the country for the last decade and their support is priceless,” he adds.